Tuesday 24 September 2013

[Review] Heliot Steakhouse, Hippodrome Casino, Leicester Square

The Heliot Steakhouse is tucked into the dress circle of the Hippodrome Casino on Leicester Square. It commands a view over the casino gaming floor, and I was invited to sample the newly launched menu on a hot Thursday evening.

I realise I've been sitting on this review for a few weeks, so without further ado let's take a look at the Heliot's burger...


The Heliot Burger - £12.50
Millionaires mac 'n' cheese - £12
Sticky shortrib and spicy wings - £17.50


Ok. The burger comes plated with a spear of pickle a la Byron, and on the face of it, it looks pretty good. A theatre-style curtain of cheese hangs down in festoons around the edges of the patty, and bacon peeks out from under an appetizing brioche bun that encases the whole thing neatly.


Ok. The Monterey Jack cheese is creamy and encases the patty, giving a satisfying texture to the bite through. The bacon was salty and well grilled, though was also slightly rubbery through the dry curing - I think in this context, I'd like to have had it a bit crisper. Underneath the patty, the large tomato ring chucked a load of water into the burger, but not a lot of flavour.


Meat Fail. Thank god I don't get many of these anymore. 

As a precursor to ordering, I was chatting to our very friendly waitress about the beef, and the conversation went thus:
Waitress: We use only the best British-sourced beef." 
Me: This is good news" I thought as I ordered my burger medium-rare.
Waitress: "Oh, I'm sorry sir, the chef won't cook burgers medium rare, health and safety you see".
Me: "Ok, so make it as pink as possible"
Waitress: "I'll ask, sir."

Imagine my lack of surprise when my patty came out well done. I'd like to think the Heliot use the best beef from British farms, but as I sunk my teeth into my dry, over-compressed, well-done, pre-salted, rubbery beef patty, I just couldn't tell.


Fine. Standard brioche, toasted, fresh, and completely undeserving of the poor piece of beef it surrounded.


Millionaire's mac 'n' cheese was excellent. For £12 it's almost a meal in itself and incorporates a mature, multi-cheese macaroni sauce topped with cheesy breadcrumbs, a poached duck's egg, and five slices of thinly sliced truffle. It's rich, earthy, and frankly breathtaking dish which I will definitely be returning for.

Overall rating: 4/10

Whilst Mrs Hamburger Me's sticky beef rib was a glorious masterpiece (if a little on the salty side), and the Millionaire's Mac 'n' Cheese felt like I'd died and gone to heaven, the burger was, in contrast, dire. The Heliot is quite fun for people watching, and for food generally, but DON'T go for the burger.

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1 comment:

  1. What have you done wrong in a previous life that you should end up at the Hippadrome Casino in Leicester Square? And then stay for food? The mind boggles.


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